Almost every consumer involved in boating refers to shaft packing as flax packing no matter what type of shaft packing is involved. The fact of the matter is that flax packing is really just a type of shaft packing. Lets take a look at the various shaft packings on the market and why you may want to use one over another and understand that all shaft packings are not flax packing.
Gtu shaft packing is the ultimate performance shaft packing. This product is braided with W.L. Gore fibers, which renders it thermal conductive, allowing your stuffing box to run cooler. The low surface friction of GTU contributes to less drag on the shaft, which in turn results in better fuel economy. The combination of W.L. Gore fibers, ptfe and graphite produce a packing that is very strong and durable, eliminating the annual shaft packing replacement cycle. This product has proven itself in the commercial marine market for a number of years and is the number one choice of work boat owners around the world. Performance, strength and savings, that’s GTU.
Tefpack shaft packing is a combination of synthetic fibers blended with ptfe. This blending of synthetic fibers and ptfe delivers a shaft packing that is very strong and very durable. Unlike natural fibers tefpack is not susceptible to the “rot/mildew” cycle that occur with organic fibers. Natural fibers, such as flax, which maintain moisture while the stuffing box is idle, can set up the conditions for mildew that may turn into a rot. That rot weakens the fibers in the packing braid which leads to the breakdown of the packing. You can avoid this cycle by using a shaft packing that incorporates a synthetic yarn as its basic foundation. Tefpack shaft packing uses a very strong synthetic yarn that delivers ongoing service, season after season. back to list
Teflon flax shaft packing is one of the most widely used shaft packings in the marine market. The main attraction for this packing is that it is inexpensive and does provide reasonably good performance. This shaft packing is braided from natural flax which is found in most parts of the world. The flax is braided into the correct size and is then impregnated with Teflon. The Teflon does not add strength, however it does provide for a surface that has a lower friction level than a natural packing without the Teflon. The net result is a reasonably good product at a competitive price found in most parts of the world. The drawback to the Teflon flax packing is that it is not a strong packing and does require replacement on a regular basis.
Natural flax shaft packing with wax and animal fat, as the lubricating material, has been the packing standard for years. The chief reasons for its popularity is that it is inexpensive and readily available in most parts of the mariner’s world. History shows that despite the fact this product was the standard packing replacement, it has been replaced by newer and better packings. The drawbacks to standard flax packing are that it is not a strong fiber and the conventional lubricant (wax/animal fat) dissipate very fast, leaving only the flax fiber. In addition the natural flax has a tendency to mildew and rot causing the flax fibers to breakdown. Many new and effective shaft packings have replaced conventional flax, yet many boat owners continue to use it as a packing replacement. back to list
The drip less moldable packing kit may not be suitable for all boats, especially those with
Very high speed shafts. To make sure your boat is compatible with the drip less moldable kit, run the following formula to make sure this kit will work properly in your boat.
Shaft size times three (3), that number times the shaft (not engine)rpms, divided by 12. If the number is less then 900 the kit is compatible with your boat. If the answer is over 900 then your boat is outside the envelope of performance for the drip less moldable kit and it should not be used in that vessel.
1” shaft times 3= 3 times 1500 shaft rpms=4500 divided by 12=375 which is well below the limit of 900.
DRIP LESS MOLDABLEShaft packing is a very unique product. This is the most practical way to eliminate water leaking into your stuffing box or leaking rudder stuffing boxes. The beauty of this product is that you can install it in your current stuffing box the same way you install replacement packing. The drip less moldable packing kit consists of the moldable packing in the form of sticks of material. This material is similar to a clay material and as a result it is necessary to install retainers to hold the moldable packing in place. You may use any standard square braid packing similar to the ones mentioned above, to act as a retainer for the moldable material. Here is a summary of the installation of the drip less moldable packing kit.
1. Cut two (2) lengths of standard shaft packing (suggest you use gtu) and coat them with the paste that is in the kit. Use all the paste and give each length of packing a heavy coat of the paste.
2. Take one (1) of the pieces of packing and insert it into the head of the Stuffing box.
3. Take the green moldable packing and stuff it into the stuffing box next to the first piece of square braid packing you just installed.try and fill the stuffing box cavity with the moldable material.you may only use a few sticks of the moldable material. That is ok, as some stuffing boxes will take more moldable material and some less.
4. Once you have the stuffing box cavity filled with the moldable material, take the second piece of square braid packing and fit it around the end of the shaft. When you complete this part you should have a ring of square braid packing, a quantity of moldable drip less packing and a second ring of square braid packing on the end. The idea is to use the square braid packing to hold or retain the moldable material in place.
5. Hand tighten the stuffing box nut. By doing this you push the air voids out of the moldable material which creates a seal within the stuffing box. This seal is what keeps the water out of your stuffing box. Do not tighen the stuffing box nut at this time, simply hand tighten.
6. Secure the boat in a slip, start the engine at idle, engage the transmission at idle and allow it to run for about ten (10) minutes. This will bring the stuffing box up to operating temperature. Adjust the stuffing box nut 1/8 of a turn and monitor the drip. Once the drip stops, leave the nut at that setting. Now you have adjusted the tension for the operational condition of the stuffing box. Remember the stuffing box expands as it heats up and that is why doing the final adjustment at the expanded state is so important. Your stuffing box will operate at a higher temperature as you no longer have water flowing through it to cool it down. This is not a problem as long as the temperature does not exceed 140f. If you can touch the stuffing box with your hand, even if you cannot leave it there, that temperature is ok. To check the temperature you can use a simple cooking thermometer or one of the more high tech thermal sensors.
COMMOM PROBLEMS THAT CAUSE OVERHEATING WITH THE DRIP LESS KIT.
A. Do you have the correct size square braid packing as a retainer?
This is the number one cause of overheating. Forcing oversized packing into the stuffing box will cause overheating.
B. Is there a problem in the drive train that might contribute to the overheating? Shaft out of alignment, strut bearing issue or a motor mount that may have failed. Check it all out.
C. Do you have the stuffing box nut to tight? Number two (2) reason for overheating. Everyone wants to tighten the nut on the stuffing box right? Wrong! Tighter is not better. It simply compresses the packing and the seal it forms is less effective. Hand tighten and then a slight additional pressure with a wrench will do the job.
D. Did you double check the formula for the kit to make sure that your boat is within the performance envelope of the kit?
7. During the first few hours of operation, some of the paste you put on the square braid packing will leak out of the stuffing box, this is normal. If you encounter paste and moldable material leaking out of the stuffing box, you may have installed a square braid packing, as a retainer, that is too small for your stuffing box. If that is the case you will need to replace the retainer square braid packing with the correct size as the moldable material will continue to leak out of the stuffing box.
8. The left over moldable material can be used to stop leaks in your rudder stuffing box. It is the same procedure as the stuffing box except you may tighten the rudder post nut tight after the installation of the packing and the moldable material.back to list
Replacing the shaft packing in your stuffing box can be a major task or in some cases a reasonably simple job. Much of the frustration related to this job comes down to access to the area of the stuffing box. Based on experience it would appear that some boat designers have no clue as to what the stuffing box is for or why a person would want to have access to it. I suppose if the designer had to stand on his head to replace the shaft packing, he might have more insight on making the access to the stuffing box more reasonable. Be that as it may, just assume for this set of circumstances access to the stuffing box is reasonable.
The number one question that comes up when contemplating the replacement of the packing in the stuffing box, is, what size shaft packing goes in my stuffing box? This age old question is one that has been the pivot point of many mistakes on the road to packing replacement. Too large of a packing causes excess friction and heat buildup. Too small allows water to by pass the seal the packing is suppose to create.
HOW DO I DETERMINE THE CORRECT SIZE OF PACKING TO USE IN MY STUFFING BOX.
If the packing that is in the stuffing box is still in good shape,you might try measuring it to get an idea of the correct size. This will be an estimate as the packing may have taken a set.
You can measure the distance inside the stuffing box from the wall to the shaft. This will give you a good idea of the size.
You might call the boat builder if they are still around and try and get direction from them as to the size.
Some builders incorporate the packing size information in the boat’s operating manuel.
HOW DO I GET THE OLD SHAFT PACKING OUT OF THE STUFFING BOX?
You can use a flexible packing extractor tool that looks like a cork screw on a flexible shaft. These extractor tools come in several sizes. The various tool sizes are listed below with the size of shaft packing they will extract. Some of the tools will cover more than one (1) size of shaft packing. Review the information to determine the correct size tool you require for your specific application. Now you have the correct extractor tool. Carefully stick the sharp tip of the extractor tool into the body of the old packing and twist the tool so that the cork screw tip engages the packing and you have a secure hold on the packing with the tool. Apply steady pressure and continue to pullon the packing until it comes loose. If you pull to hard or to quick, you might tear the old packing or break the tool’s tip off in the old packing. Once you get all of the old packing removed from the stuffing box, check to make sure the stuffing box is clean and free of any other foreign material.
|MODEL OF TOOL||SIZE MODEL NUMBER||SIZE OF SHAFT PACKING TOOL WILL EXTRACT|
|10162||NUMBER 3||½”-5/8” UP|
CAN I JUST ADD MORE SHAFT PACKING TO THE PACKING THAT IS ALREADY IN THE STUFFING BOX?
No, do not add more shaft packing to a stuffing box that already has old packing in it. All your doing is forcing more material into the stuffing box cavity which will not accomplish much other then create more drag and more heat in the stuffing box. Do it the right way and clean out the old packing. Replace it with new packing of the correct size.
This replacement packing situation is a bit like buying oats. If you want them fresh and dry they cost more then oats that have been through the horse. Take your time, do your homework and do the job right the first time.
HOW TIGHT SHOULD THE PACKING NUT BE AFTER I COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION OF THE NEW SHAFT PACKING?
Common sense should prevail here, but alas tighter seems better to most boaters. Wrong!!!! Tighter is not better, in fact you should hand tighten to start with. Tie the boat off in the slip. Start the engine and let it run at idle. Engage the transmission and let it run for about ten (10) minutes. Now start to watch the drip and hand tighten until the drip stops. If you cannot stop the drip by hand, use a wrench and turn the nut very slow and very little until the drip stops. To much pressure on the nut is one of the major problems that causes a heat buildup in the stuffing box. Treat it like a women, gentle and easy.
SHOULD I PUT A SHAFT PACKING LUBRICANT ON THE NEW REPLACEMENT PACKING?
You should use a shaft packing lubricant if you want to extend the life of your shaft packing and if you want to get better performance out of the new installation. Your packing will work without the shaft packing lubricant- it just won’t work as well or last as long. One of the better shaft packing lubricants is a product called syntef. This lubricant is not only a quality shaft lubricant it is also a sealent that reduces the amount of water that enters the stuffing box. The installation is simple. Wear a protective glove and simply coat the shaft packing on all sides with the syntef shaft lubricant. Then install the shaft packing as normal.
HOW MANY RINGS OF SHAFT PACKING SHOULD GO INTO MY STUFFING BOX?
The number of rings that will fit into your stuffing box will be based on the space within the stuffing box. It is not necessary to fill the entire cavity with rings of packing. You need to leave enough space to effectivley secure the nut in place with more than one or two threads. Common sense would tell you that if you can get three rings in the stuffing box and you can secure the nut with three or four threads, then leave it at that and don’t try to put in a fourth ring of packing. Too many boaters try and put too much packing in the stuffing box. In this case more is not always good.
HOW DO I DETERMINE WHAT LENGTH TO CUT THE SHAFT PACKING SO THAT IT WILL FIT PROPERLY AROUND THE SHAFT?
It is recommended for most applications that packing is cut straight to the center of the shaft. This provides for the smallest amount of frayed ends. Packing cut on a diagonal has a greater chance to unravel or not seat properly and is not recommended for medium and high speed applications. Precision in cutting your packing is critical. Use a very sharp blade for as clean a cut, as possible. Most packings will contract during break in and it is recommended that the packing be cut 1-2% longer than the measured length. The outside diameter of the packing is greater than the inside diameter, therefore, a straight cut on the shaft is actually a cut at an angle of about 20 degrees when cut on the flat. This assures that both the outside and the inside of the packing will butt together tightly. If cutting the packing on the shaft or on a piece of shaft kept for that purpose; wrap the packing firmly around the shaft and cut straight towards the center. If cutting on the flat, the inside length of the packing will match the circumference of the shaft while the outside length will be greater due to the thickness of the packing. Cutting at an angle of about 20 degrees is critical for a tight fit.back to list
SHAFT PACKING LUBRICATION
Is shaft packing lubrication really necessary? Well this is agood question. In the past, shaft packings ran without shaft packing lubricants. The question is, what is gained by the use of a shaft packing lubricant on the replacement packing? The lubricant reduces the friction between the shaft and the packing. This means less mechcanical wear of the packing. The less mechcanical wear of the shaft against the packing means longer packing life. Longer packing life translates to longer time between packing replacement……fewer haulouts. The reduction of friction between the shaft and the packing could also translate to better fuel economy. Commercial workboat owners have found that by using a shaft packing with a lower surface friction they end up with better fuel economy with their vessel. Commercial owners do this by using very high tech w.l. gore shaft packings. The same as our gtu. If you elect to use a non w.l. gore shaft packing, you might consider investing in a good shaft packing lubricant to reduce the surface friction. One of the best is called syntef. It is available at most marine supply outlets.
Installation tips for shaft packing lubricant. Simply apply the shaft packing lubricant on all sides of the shaft packing. Insert the shaft packing into the stuffing box as you would for a normal installation. Continue the same process with the remainder of the replacement packing.back to list
Packing extractor tools come in a variety of styles and designs. The flexible shaft models seem to work the best. Because the shaft is flexible, it allows the user to get at the stuffing box from a number of angles. As we know the folks who build the boats don’t know that the owner may some day wish to access the stuffing box to replace the shaft packing. The trick seems to be to get the correct size tool for your stuffing box and packing size. The chart listed below will give you some insight to the correct size of tool to use for your specific size packing. Of course if you’re the average boater you won’t have a clue as to the packing size in your stuffing box. It would seem to be important to know this information, as the packing size will play an important roll in your selection of the correct size extractor tool.
|MODEL||SIZE TOOL||SUGGESTED TOOL TO PULL VARIOUS PACKING SIZES|
|10159||SIZE 0 7”||1/8”-3/16”|
|10160||SIZE 1 7.75”||¼”-5/16”|
|10161||SIZE 2 11.50”||3/8”-7/16”|
|10162||SIZE 3 15.50”||½”-5/8” AND LARGER SIZES|
HOTSHIELD MUFFLER/MANIFOLD WRAP
The hotshield muffler/manifold wrap is a protective fiberglass wrap that can be used to insulate hot sections within the engine area. The wrap comes in several configurations, sizes and heat ranges. It is very important to determine the heat range of the hot section that is to be insulated. Always error on the side of more heat protection rather then less. The thicker wrap will offer more protection than the thinner wrap. The foil backed wraps will offer even more protection than the non-foil backed models. The various models of hotshield wraps are listed below with their size, width, length, and heat level.
|MODEL||COMMERCIAL ROLLS 100’||HEAT LIMIT|
|20001||1/8” X 2” 100’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20002||1/16” X 3” X 100’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20003||1/8” X 3” 100’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20004||1/16” X 4” X 100’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20006||1/16” X 3” 100’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20009||1/8” X 2” X 100’ FOIL BACKED 10’ SS WIRE||950F|
|20010||1/16” X 3” X 100’ FOIL BACKED 10’ SS WIRE||950F|
|HOTSHIELD MINIS INDIVIDUAL 25’ ROLLS|
|20015||1/8” X 2” X 25’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20017||1/16” X 3” X 25’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20020||1/16” X 4” X 25’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20026||1/16” X 3” X 25’ FOIL BACKED 10’ SS WIRE||950F|
|20028||1/8” X 3” X 25’ 10’ STAINLESS STEEL WIRE||750F|
|20029||1/8" X 3" X 25' FOIL BACKED||950F|
The installation of the Hot Shield Minis or the commercial fiberglass tape is an easy installation. A key factor in the process is to determine the heat level you are working with as the model and type of tape you use, will need to meet the heat requirements of your project.
All Hot Shield Minis and the Hot Shield commercial fiberglass tape is E-glass quality. Most fiberglass tape wraps are constructed from C-glass which is not as durable nor does it have the higher temperature range that the E-glass offers. So now you have established the temperature range your working with and you need to match it with the correct protective wrap. Most Hot Shield wraps will fall into two (2) heat ranges. Standard E-glass without foil back will protect up to about 750 Fahrenheit or about 399 Celsius. If you need a higher degree of temperature protection, you can use one of the Heat Shield products that have a foil backing. The foil backed products will extend the temperature protection level up to about 950 degrees Fahrenheit or 510 degrees Celsius . When installing the Heat Shield foil backed tape, wrap the hot section with the foil portion of the tape on the outside of the wrap. So the foil portion of the tape will be facing on the outside of the wrap, not facing inward. You can extend several layers to add additional heat protection. A simple method of installing the tape is to secure it in place with stainless steel locking wire. .041 or .032 seem to work well for this task. A few wraps of the stainless steel wire along the length of the fiberglass tape should secure the tape in place.back to list
The protective apparel offering from western pacific trading includes a full line of disposable coveralls, spray socks, protective sleeves, bib overalls, shoe and boot covers. The information listed below will tell you which coverall should be used for a specific application.
MODEL:43000 LG, 43001 XL, 43002 XXL, 43003 XXXL, 43004 XXXXL
FULL BARRIER-FULL SURFACE PROTECTION
ABOUT 10% BREATHABILITY
HOOD WITH ELASTIC-CUFFS AND ANKLES WITH ELASTIC
TWO (2) WAY FRONT ZIPPER-DON’T HAVE TO TAKE OFF FOR REST ROOM VISITS ELASTIC WAIST-BREAST POCKET-SIDE POCKETS-LARGE REAR RAG POCKET- ANKLE ZIPPERS FOR EASY ON OFF WITH LARGE BOOTS OR SHOES
CLOSED IN SPRAY PAINTING
HEAVY DUTY SANDING
ALL APPLICATIONS REQUIRING FULL SURFACE PROTECTION
AGRICULTURAL PESTICIDE SPRAYING
MODEL: 41021 LG, 41022 XL, 41023 XXL, 41024 XXXL, 41024 XXXXL,
FULL BREATHABILITY-NOT FULL SURFACE PROTECTION
100% BREATHABILITY-VERY COMFORTABLE TO WEAR IN HOT CLIMATE
HOOD WITH ELASTIC-CUFFS AND ANKLES WITH ELASTIC
TWO (2) WAY FRONT ZIPPER-DON’T HAVE TO TAKE OFF FOR REST ROOM VISITS
ELASTIC WAIST-BREAST POCKET-SIDE WAIST POCKETS-LARGE REAR RAG POCKET
ANKLE ZIPPERS FOR EASY ON OFF WITH LARGE BOOTS OR SHOES
NOT TO BE USED FOR FIBERGLASS GRINDING
NOT TO BE USED FOR CLOSED IN SPRAY PAINTING
NOT TO BE USED FOR AGRICULTRUAL PESTICIDE SPRAYING
Note: this coverall breaths so do not use this model coverall in any situation that requires full surface protection.
SIZES: ONE SIZE FITS ALL.
Wear under coverall as additional protection layer for painting or general maintenance. This spray sock is a unique blend of cotton and poly that makes it very comfortable to wear. This blend also gives it a wide stretch range adding to the comfort level. The extra long neck of the spray sock allows the user to tuck it inside for additional protection.
SHOE & BOOT COVERS
SIZES: ONE SIZE FITS ALL
40031 BOOT COVER
40032 SHOE COVER
Wear over shoes or boots to protect the shoes and boots from paint or chemicals. The shoe and boot covers have elastic tops to seal off the shoe or boot. The body of the covers is made from a strong non-woven poly. The covers do not have an anti skid bottom, however they seem to maintain good surface traction in wet conditions. The covers offer full surface protection against fiberglass fibers, paint and resins. back to list
Most of us only get one (1) pair of eyes in this lifetime, so it would make sense to protect them against injury. Quality safety glasses and safety goggles go a long way in offering that protection. The standard for acceptable protection is the ansi approved z87-1-1-1979. All of the safety glasses and goggles offered by western pacific trading carry this approval.
These safety goggles are anti-fog and offer protection against chemical splash. The heavy-duty flexible frame and adjustable elastic headband make this goggle the choice of professional workers. Clear lenses.
These safety glasses feature a strong flexible frame with adjustable temples. The quality clear lens offers unrestricted vision for added safety.
FASHION SAFETY GLASSES:
These full fashion safety glasses meet all of the ansi standards, but they do it with style.
The clear, full fashion lens, offers a complete visibility range for the wearer.
FASHION SUNGLASS SAFETY GLASSES:
Same style as model 52030 but this model has a gray lens. The gray lens in this model provides 99% uv protection. back to list
NIOSH/MSHA HALF FACE RESPIRATORS
These quality half face respirators, when fitted with the proper cartridges, can protect against organic vapors, welding gases and pesticides. The respirators are available in sizes medium and large. They must be fitted with the proper cartridge to offer the approved protection. Dust filters and plastic retainers are available to cover the cartridges for added protection in environments of high pollution such as paint booths. Safety eyewear should be worn with the half face respirators.
MODEL:50010 SIZE MEDIUM RESPIRATOR
MODEL: 50011 SIZE LARGE RESPIRATOR
MODEL: 50020 ORGANIC VAPOR CARTRIDGE-TWIN PACK
MODEL: 50030 PLASTIC PRE-FILTER RETAINER
MODEL: 50031 CLOTH PRE-FILTER back to list
WESTERN PACIFIC TRADING OFFERS THE FOLLOWING SELECTION OF GLOVES.
SUREFIT WORK GLOVE
PVC HEAVY DUTY FISHING GLOVE
HEAVA-PRENE CHEMICAL GLOVE
MODEL: 60001 MED
MODEL: 60002 LG
MODEL: 60003 XL
These latex gloves are 4-5 mil in thickness. They offer good protection for general maintenance, painting and varnish work. They should not be used with strong solvents or chemicals. Light powder.
MODEL: 60060 LG
MODEL: 60061 XLS
These gloves can be used by those individuals that do not wish to wear latex gloves. These gloves are 4-5 mil thick and offer good protection for general maintenance and painting. Should not be used with strong chemicals or solvents. Light powder.
The disposable nitrile glove is available in two (2) thickness ranges as well as light powder and powder free. The nitrile glove should be the choice for chemical work including solvents and resins.
SUREFIT WORK GLOVE
This unique glove has textured fingers and palm for secure handling. The breathable back mesh offers a very high level of comfort. Should not be used with chemicals.
DOUBLE THICK PVC FISHING GLOVES
MODEL: 60036 LG
MODEL: 60037 XL
These heavy duty pvc gloves have a patented hand form to insure a firm fit and secure grip. The textured fingers and palm offer maximum sensitivity for the wearer. These gloves are the choice of professional fisherman world wide.
HEAVA-PRENE CHEMICAL GLOVE
MODEL: 60081 LG
MODEL: 60082 XL
The heava-prene chemical glove is a heavy-duty yellow latex, coated with a blue neoprene. This unique combination offers a very high quality glove that is suitable for a wide range of chemicals. The heva-prene glove is 28-mil thickness